It could probably be glued, but I've never glued at semi-tubular piece of wood before, so, dunno. The tootsie roll forearm has a lengthwise crack down the bottom, not all the way to the end. I know that it wasn't a very good safety and a lot of people removed them because of the hassle of dealing with them. For it's age, it is in pretty good condition, except for three things. Let me toss out a couple of my other concerns. OK, biting the bullet and keeping it are right near the top of my list, after all I really did buy it because of the way it looked. Sell the thing for parts? How much would one list a parts gun for?Īny thoughts or suggestions would be welcome. Also heard that they only give you $75 off the MSRP of a new rifle. I read in an earlier thread where someone posted that a 310 could be turned in for a new 397 or 392. Pyramyd offered to install the kit for $25 plus shipping both ways, probably fair, but more than I want to spent. Are the better tools available than the one provided with the kit? Any pointers? I don't know if this is a result of my being afraid to use more pressure for fear of stripping the hole in the brass, or if in fact the tool is rounded in the wrong spots. When I try to remove the brass nut (?) I can't seem to get enough traction and the tool winds up slipping. The square end of the tool is not as square as I imagined that it would be, and the edges seem a bit rounded in spots. I have the kit (with removal tool), purchased from Pyramyd, but have not been able to remove the valve components. cheers, man - ps: great bunch of guys here, bro.I have a Benjamin 312 that's been sitting in the closet for months, needing a valve/ reseal kit.
it used to be a bigger thing , but whatever. i fix of these things for folks here around ft.w / dallas area (n.texas) as a hobby anymore. make sure theres nothing stuck in the barrel by opening the bolt all the way and looking thru the muzzle for light (of course, you'll have hold the open bolt area up TO the light) because ive made this mistake here lately. you get on ebay and find a pump cup - but they want around $12 for a rubber plunger cup, i get em in the 5 pk from mccaster-karr (u can darn near find any part you'll ever need there).but usually ,that and some lube usually fixes it enough - and, those just unscrew where the pumparm connects (others we have to drive out pins). Its most likely a 312 or a 317.dunno who painted the black caps on the end of the tootsie roll pump handle, but it doesnt look that bad actually.
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